Part List for Making your own Fightstick from Scratch

Making joysticks or fight sticks can be a daunting task if you have never done it before. I was building a pair of game specific joysticks for "Buriki One" and decided to just make a video documenting the process. Granted, I stained the box and pre-drilled where I want the buttons and joystick to be to conserve time but all in all this should be a nice first step for someone wanting to build a controller for themselves.

Please note: The controller in this video is for my supergun, which is an external box that plays arcade boards and the controller ports are set to arcade specs, so I do not need a controller pcb. Hardwiring the Neo-Geo extension cable to the fightstick components will work fine for this specific setup. If you are looking to build a fightstick for the Xbox 360/One and PS3/4, I strongly recommend just buying a Brooks Universal Fighting Board. Also, SlagCoin where you want to go for your joystick template.

I have linked all of the parts used in this video below. Mixed and match however you want. I personally used the IL joysticks because I wanted to save a few bucks and I didn't want to invest too much on a joystick that I will be using for only one game. I plan on building a Neo-Geo controller using all Japanese components in the near future so stay tune for that.

Part List:

• Gray-white Waterproof Plastic Project Box Enclosure 200x120x75mm
• IL (Industrias Lorenzo) Joystick
• Seimitsu 30mm screw button push buttons
• Seimitsu 24 screw button push button
• Blue Vinyl Dye
• 28 AWG Stranded Wires
• Soldering Iron
• Neo-Geo MVS/AES Extension Cable
• Wire Strippers
• Multimeter

--Nathan

How to Change the Suicide Battery on the CPS2 Arcade Board (with video)

So this is my CPS2 battery swap article from 02.06.2009 from Pineconeattack. This is the one thing I literally do once every 5 years. If you have a lot of CPS2 boards, I strongly suggest buying the batteries in the exact quantities and hopefully you can get a price break for buying them in bulk. I hope this article will still be useful to those in need of replacing your battery. I will keep it up here for archival purpose. 

--Nathan

I’ve been collecting arcade hardware for a few years now and I’ve learned one very important thing about this hobby: knowledge is everything and the more you know the better you can preserve your growing expensive collection. You have to keep in mind that some older arcade games have the dreaded suicide battery that kills the functionality of your board when the on board battery dies. This is a big bummer for me since some of my more favorite arcade boards have this appalling flaw and as a general rule, I tend to stay away from them BUT some of the boards are easily swappable if you know what you are doing. From my experience the easiest board to swap the battery is the CP System 2 board by Capcom.

There’s plenty of write ups on forums and websites but none of them that I could find can satisfy my fetish for illustrative step-by-step walkthroughs. So with this in mind, if any of the pictures do not make any sense, then read the paragraph associated with it, hopefully that should answer most of your questions. If you still do not understand, please leave a comment so I can amend the walkthrough for future readers.

[Please note that this walk-through is based off of Razoola’s informative guide from CPS2Shock. All credit goes to him for helping out the arcade community with his informative write ups.]

WARNING:

This is a simple project if you have some technical skills. This walkthrough is as simplified as I can make it so if none of this makes any sense then please DO NOT ATTEMPT. This project will void what little warranty there may still exist for your board.  The moment the old battery is removed you have less than 1 hour before the ROM on the PCB will die.

Attempt at your own risk!

Pineconeattack (Outdated References) will not take any responsibility if you kill your board.